What the 2011 Summer Riots Were Really About. (Photos by Henry Langston) It's been five years, and the question still remains of how we make sense of the English riots of 2011.
Riots that saw more than 14,000 people take to the streets across England for three days. Can Gays Against Guns Break the American Gun Industrial Complex? Members of Gays Against Guns stage a die-in at the offices of BlackRock, Inc. in New York City.
Photo by John Grauwiler The true motives behind the Pulse nightclub tragedy this June likely died with the shooter. It's human nature to seek causality in the face of senseless violence, but speculative reasons that he chose a popular gay nightclub on a Latin dance night to murder 49 people—that he was a closeted gay man, that he had been spurned by a former lover—remain in question. There's evidence that the shooter may have been self-radicalized and wanted America to stop bombing Iraq and Syria, but facts beyond that remain hazy.
The Unhealthy Truth Behind 'Wellness' and 'Clean Eating' Illustration by Marta Parszeniew.
A few years ago, I found wellness. My body felt like a burden, and the food I ate didn't seem to energise me or push me on: it dulled my edges, left me foggy, soft and slow. So I made a change. I got rid of the chocolate bars, microwave meals and cakes. I read about plant-based diets, and stopped eating meat, fish, dairy, eggs and anything too processed. Direct-to-Consumer Labels Sharpen Their Brands. NEW YORK, United States — When married designers Lisa Mayock and Jeff Halmos began planning the June 2016 launch of their graphics t-shirt range Monogram, there was no question that they would adopt a direct-to-consumer business model made possible by e-commerce, which is relatively cheaper than opening a physical store and allows a brand to market directly to customers across the globe.
“Jeff and I both have a wholesale background, and what we liked about direct-to-consumer was that it’s about getting feedback in real time,” says the New York-based Mayock, who co-designed the line Vena Cava, while Halmos did Shipley & Halmos. “In wholesale, you would ship to the store and it would be a game of telephone to find out what the customer liked or didn’t like.”
And yet, as more and more brands choose to launch in this way, success has become more challenging. Between the Catwalk and the Consumer: Fashion’s Growing Diversity Gap. LONDON, United Kingdom — Bethann Hardison remembers the days when, before every New York Fashion Week, “Casting directors would send out notices to all the modelling agencies in the city, saying 'no blacks, no ethnics' — we don’t want to see them.”
Back then, the issue of diversity in the fashion industry had “got lost like a splinter,” says Hardison, a former model and founder of the Diversity Coalition, which works with industry bodies like the CFDA to raise awareness about racial diversity and discrimination in fashion. In 2007, tired and frustrated, Hardison hosted a press conference in a New York hotel, where she publicly lambasted the industry’s lack of diversity. “From that moment on,” Hardison says, “No one has ever said that again.” Data Alone Can’t Decode the Fashion Consumer. SAN FRANCISCO, United States — As another fashion month has come and gone, it’s clearer than ever that our sartorial psyche and shopping behaviours are as close to our phones and computers as our fingers are.
We can express our personal style, discover new brands and buy items with just a few swipes. And e-commerce — which, by 2018, is expected to generate $86 billion in sales of apparel and accessories in the US alone — is playing a critical role in shaping the fashion industry at large. We’ve seen apps like Uber, Airbnb and Postmates transform the transportation, hospitality and food industries in ways that were previously considered unimaginable. The Outdoor ‘Dad Brands’ Tapping Urban Youth. LONDON, United Kingdom — For decades, outdoor brands have catered to a core demographic of middle-aged mountaineers and outdoor sports devotees, with product innovation and practical performance gear, such as water-resistant parkas, sturdy fleece and waxed-cotton duffle bags.
But increasingly, brands including The North Face, Columbia, Canada Goose and Penfield are teaming up with streetwear labels to target young, urban consumers — earning high-profile fans like Kanye West, Drake and A$AP Rocky along the way. For Autumn/Winter 2007, The North Face launched its first outerwear collaboration with streetwear label Supreme, comprising two new versions of the outdoor brand’s staple Summit Series jacket.
The collaborative items — which took a more design-focussed approach to The North Face’s practical gear — sold out within minutes and kick-started a decade-long string of collaborations between the two brands, which is now in its 17th consecutive season. The 'Fashionisation' of Childrenswear. LONDON, United Kingdom — “Today, people want kidswear to be fun and trendy.
People are very conscious of how they want their children to look,” says Ellen Kirkhope, kidswear director at trend forecasting agency WGSN. Indeed, consumers have become more likely to make childrenswear purchases based on fashion, rather than practicality, sparking a creative revolution in the growing childrenswear market. The global childrenswear market racked up sales of €135.6 billion in 2015, up from €122.1 billion in 2010, according to Euromonitor, creating commercial opportunity for new brands. Tapping Generation Z. LONDON, United Kingdom — Recent years have been tough for traditional teen retailers.
Abercrombie & Fitch, Aéropostale and American Eagle — once sought-after brands among high-school kids in the US — have seen their popularity and profits plummet. Since 2010, Abercrombie & Fitch has closed more than 275 stores, while Aéropostale shuttered over 120 stores in 2014 alone. For one, these retailers were hurt by their over-reliance on footfall to shopping malls and failed to adapt quickly enough to the rise of social media platforms, where today's teenagers spend far more time.
At the same time, they were out-priced and out-designed by fast fashion giants like H&M and Zara. Strategic failures like these have played a significant role in the downfall of traditional teen retailers. The Rise of the Fashion Hipster. NEW YORK, United States — This past Paris Fashion Week, the young label Vetements headed by Demna Gvasalia was the talk of the town and their instantly recognisable logo-ed raincoats and sweatshirts were seemingly everywhere.
They were mostly worn by the young, self-conscious, well-informed fashion insiders and were instant fodder for the street-style photographers, who themselves tend to be young, self-conscious, and well informed. What we are witnessing is the rise of the fashion hipster — a new consumer class that in its self-image and purchasing habits is not driven by the notion of luxury but by characteristics normally associated with hipsterism — irony, camp, and insider humour.