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I inevitably feel dispirited, certain I am destined for their sloppy seconds. The melons mock me—is there sweet flesh beneath their opaque exteriors? As part of my quest, I enlisted the help of reference materials, mainly Aliza Green's recent book, The Field Guide to Produce: How To Identify, Select, and Prepare Virtually Every Fruit and Vegetable at the Market and Alice Waters' beautifully illustrated Chez Panisse: Fruit. Some general tips to bear in mind: 1) First, familiarize yourself with the various fruits' peak seasons. 2) Don't be afraid to sample, particularly when buying berries or other finger fruits—it's one of the most foolproof ways to gauge quality.