Gem. Airbrush. Blade. Recipe. Raptor Squad Markings. Painting the Chaos shields [ www.jrn-works.dk ] The chaos shields for troops in the Chaos Army Project are painted like this: Chaos Black basecolour highlighted with Shadow Grey followed by Space Wolf grey on the very edges of the shields.
![Painting the Chaos shields [ www.jrn-works.dk ]](http://cdn.pearltrees.com/s/pic/th/painted-miniatures-nielsen-1412494)
The gold was painted using a basecolour of Shining Gold washed with a 2:1 Purple/Chestnut ink mix and highlighted adding Mithrill Silver to Shining Gold. Finally the Gold areas were given a thinned down glaze using a mix of Tamiya Clear Orange, water, a brushtip of dish-soap, and a brushtip of Chaos Black. The weathering was done by painting the metal scratches first with Mithrill Silver. Then the black part of the shield was washed with thinned down Chestnut ink in a somewhat random making sure that some of the metal scratches were partially covered. Painting fine details with India Ink Artist Pens -santa cruz war. Some purists will say that it is cheating, but for the modestly talented painters this is a great tool: archival India Ink artist pens. The pens have ink in them that covers very well on any painted model and it looks great.
They come in all different tip sizes and are very useful for painting banners, scrolls, ornamentation and other intricate detail work. Eye liner, shading, the options are endless. I myself only use it when I feel my painting will not do the job. John has been using these pens for a while now, I started using them on the Iron Snake SlavesUsing the white pen I drew the design and later touched it up with a bit of white. Try it out, it works really well! You can find the White Pen Touch hereYou can find the Faber-Castell Pens here Mike.
The Bolter and Chainsword : Ork Painter. How to paint cobblestones (Manorhouse) Painted Miniatures, Galleries & Tutorials. Tutorial: Streak Painting No long list of supplies to create this effect: all that's required are your normal variety of paints and one very good thin point brush, such as a Winsor & Newton Sceptre Gold II 101 size 00. lassy smooth blending is a damned difficult thing to achieve.
It takes only a little practice and a drop of dedication to get good blends, but a truly perfect transistion is tough. For a Golden Demon entry it's an excellent goal, but if you're interested in painting an army's worth of figures, it's prohibitively time consuming. In addition, there's a law of diminishing returns: one hour spent may result in a fine effect, but two hours spent does not mean that the effect will be twice as good. This is the problem I encountered regularly. As visitors to the site likely know, I have a growing collection of tyranids (and in fact an entire second army from years past consisting of yesterday's models -- these aren't in the galleries since they no longer represent my best work).
BrushThralls.com. One of the most striking parts of an army is a fully painted cavalry unit.
The problem with mounted figures is that the mount (which is a larger part of the model) is not the “star” of the show and needs to be muted in relation to the rider on top of it (even in the case of a Chaos Champion on a Juggernaut :-)). My philosophy to achieve this is to use the same paints between the different areas, either to base, shade or highlight, and to not highlight the whole mount too far (too close to pure white).
In this tutorial I am going to explain how to paint a few different basic horse types: The Chestnut, the Bay and the Paint. Future tutorials will cover other type of animal mounts and well as fantastic/magical creatures. Each horse is cleaned assembled and mounted on a piece of cork for easy painting (these are craft corks, which are on the expensive side - but perfect for the task).