DIORMAG. 1947. L’année de naissance du New Look est aussi celle où Christian Dior pose devant l’objectif d’Irving Penn dans une mise en scène sobre, frappante de modernité. 1947, c’est également l’année où le jeune Richard Avedon vient pour la première fois à Paris immortaliser les créations de la Maison, avec un regard plein de fraîcheur. Devant leur objectif et celui de tant d’autres, une nouvelle photographie rencontre la nouvelle silhouette imaginée par Christian Dior.
Ce sont ces deux visions – ces deux « new looks » –, et leur postérité, que donne à voir Jérôme Gautier, journaliste de formation, spécialisé en photographie de mode, à travers Dior : New Looks. Au fil des pages, les clichés des grands photographes d’hier et d’aujourd’hui racontent autant l’histoire de leur art que celle de la Maison. Dior : New Looks, éditions Thames & Hudson 304 pages.Sortie au Royaume-Uni le 19 octobre. Sortie en France le 22 octobre. Sortie en Allemagne le 26 octobre. Sortie aux Etats-Unis le 17 novembre. Portrait de Jeanne Lanvin | Lanvin, plus de 125 ans de création. Paul Poiret (1879–1944) – Edwardian Dresses & Fashion | Photographs, film, literature & qoutes from the bygone era. Paul Poiret ca. 1923 Paul Poiret (1879 – 1944) became a legendary French Couturier. His contributions to twentieth-century fashion have been likened to Picasso’s contributions to twentieth-century art. Poiret dominated Belle Epoque fashion and reshaped women’s silhouettes by liberating them from constricting corsets and popularising the high waist.
From abolishing the corset he went further with hobble skirts, “harem” pantaloons, and “lampshade” tunics, using the fabulous soirées he threw in his garden to promote such whimsies. His most famous soirée was The Thousand and Second Night party he threw in 1911. Unfortunately post war Europe and the public were not akin or sympathetic to Poiret’s style and he closed his house, heavy in debt, in 1929. He was employed at the house of Worth but did not continue there for long. Paul Poiret Studio 1910’s Denise, Mme Poiret. (Time reported: “M. Mme Poiret counter charged that her husband was cruel”) Paul Poiret’s costume party Paul Poiret 1923. Balmain. LOUIS VUITTON | Select Your Country. Carven. Perfume, Aftershave, Fragrances, Eau de Toilette and Accessories | Thierry Mugler. DAMIR DOMA. Élégance atypique – Maison Marchand Drapier.
Gaspard Yurkievich : Fashion designer based in Paris - ONE ONE ELEVEN. Fabrics and Details from Chanel's Supermarket - The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris. It would be easy to be distracted by the supermarket set and the accessories wrapped in plastic at the Chanel show and miss out on a chance to see how the attention to detail extended to the fabrics and garment construction. From cinched waists and geometric quilting to ring pull brooches and chanel security tags, the collection was filled with tiny details. And this is even aside from spotting the “CC” logo and any use of tweed, chains and pearls. One of the recurring details of the Autumn-Winter 2014 show was the use of cinched in waist details, paired with large rounded shoulders. This is a game of proportions that Lagerfeld has been playing on and off for a few seasons now, but this time the waist detail included panels and zips. Other interesting panelling details included the use of contrasting thick and thin fabrics like a sort of tweed armour and a sleeve panelling detail with a split.
Images from Vogue.co.uk» Laura After Midnight. Bienvenue sur le site Anatopik - Prêt à porter Femme.