05 MG How to start an MG underneath the bonnet. Distributor Advances (Part 2) - Vacuum & Mechanical Explained. MGB - dodgy starter motor or battery? Here's what you need to do. 1: Get the engine running and check the alternator/dynamo output across the battery terminals. If yours is the twin 6v batteries then obviously connect between main positive and negative not just across battery terminals, if 12v its obviously easier.
You should with engine running be getting about 14v ish. if it is 12v ish then your not charging the batteries properly hence the problem. 2: If above is ok, remove earth leads from body (battery to body) and emery up the surface, same on body. Make the connection good. Do the same on starter motor wire. 3: Find earth strap (if it is even there) it will be between bellhousing (bottom) and chassis leg usually. 4: Now the system is all good except starter or batteries. Testing Alternators and Car Batteries. Testing Alternators and Car Batteries "Back to My Projects Page" I have had numerous request about testing car alternators and batteries. Here are a few Simple Tests to determine if these parts are OK, and all that is required is a Digital Voltmeter and probably Two people.
One to watch the meter and one to start and stop the car. USE CAUTION: To Prevent getting to near the Fan Blade or other moving parts, or Accidently Shorting out the battery across a Ring on your Finger. One Simple Battery Test: 1) Connect the voltmeter directly across the "Battery Terminals". **NOW Repeat This Test BUT: 1) Connect the voltmeter directly across the "Battery Clamps on the Battery Cables". 2) This Reading should be Within 0.1 Volt Maximum, the Same as 3 Above. One Very Simple Alternator Test: These Test are "Meant to be a Guideline". All Imformation in this Article is "Copyright protected". Chemelec *Copyright © 2005* Troubleshooting Your SU Carbs.pdf (application/pdf Object) 147 MG Carburetter Tuning.
Tech tips. Before attempting to install or tune your new carburetors you must make sure that all engine systems are in good repair. Mechanical or ignition problems will greatly complicate you tuning efforts and may make tuning the carburetors impossible. Use this checklist as a pre-tuning guide: Compression Test – should be above 100 PSI as a minimum – should not vary between high and low cylinders by more than 10 PSI Valve Lash Adjustment Valve Timing – not easily checked. Worn timing chains can dramatically change valve timing. Primary Ignition System – Points and condenser should be new or in very good condition.
Secondary Ignition System – Inspect cap and rotor for wear and carbon tracking, check spark plug wires using a volt/ohm meter (VOM or DVOM) resistance per foot of wire should be between 250 and 1500 ohms – depending on your wire type. Spark Plugs and Spark – Clean and gap all plugs. Fuel Lines and Filters – CRITICAL! Got all that? Chicagoland MG Club:Tech Tips. Very low compression : MGB & GT Forum : MG Experience Forums : The MG Experience. In reply to # 2036046 by jonesy67 After it died, there was a difference in the sound when cranking the engine. I will try another tester, but it doesn't even sound likre it has compression, when I put oil in the cylinder, it sounded normal for a short time Graeme, If the problem happened abruptly, and if it indeed has cranked much more quickly than before the incident, it would be my guess that, although very, very rare, you broke a timing chain, a timing chain tensioner, or in a very extreme case, maybe even the camshaft.
I can't envision a problem with the head, the head gasket, pistons, rings, or bearings, that would cause immediate very low compression in all four holes, and your rapid cranking speed is consistent with a sudden lack of compression in all four holes, as confirmed by your compression test. And the only thing I can envision that would affect all four holes abruptly is in the cam and timing chain arena. Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi (Often wrong, but always certain) Clutch problems. Clutch problems Clutch drag is when the car will not engage gear properly without grinding the gears, especially in reverse. Generally, this occurs because the pressure plate is not retracting enough to clear the clutch plate. There can be a number of causes of this, some in the hydraulics others in the clutch itself.
This is not an extensive list, but covers the common causes and some obscure ones. Check first! Because of the variety of causes, some of which entail removal of engine, it's a good idea to sort out whether the problem is in the hydraulics or the bellhousing. If your cyl/pushrod movement is less than spec by 1 mm or more then the problem will be hydraulics (this includes the clevis problem). Internal causes of drag (ie Inside the bellhousing) If the travel at the slave cylinder pushrod is the full amount and the clutch still has a problem, it is internal (ie inside the gearbox bell housing) and the engine needs to be removed to find the cause. Solutions are Pushrod length. MG Tech Index -- 2500+ pages. MGB Lubrication Chart UK. MGB Update - Rear Brakes. 19 MG MGB Rear Brakes. 73 MGB Fuel Pump. Moss Europe, Ltd - Classic Parts for Classic, MX-5, MGF, Mini, MGB. MGB Parts. Brown & Gammons - First for everything MG.
MG Owners' Club. MG photo based color code guide. Honest John.