Info - - Wheel Truing Stand. Here is the design I threw together about a year ago: And here's how it turned out. I cut the pieces and had a friend weld it up for me.During the cutting and welding we changed the design a bit from the diagram above. Here is the pic with the magnetic holder and dial gauge for truing. The holder, and subsequently the gauge, can be positioned anywhere on the stand so the gauge is visable while truing the wheel. The total cost for everything to put this together was about $15.00 and an hours work. I'm proud to say it's a better stand than one of the local HD dealers has. The magnetic base and dial gauge are around $20-$40, unless you get them during a sale.You can buy them online from Eastwood, just do a search for 'Magnetic Dial Gauge'.
For questions/corrections/additions, please see this thread. Info - - Softail Spring Compressor. DISCLAIMER: Coil springs can store tremendous energy and cause injury or death. Consult proper shop manuals for assembly and dissassembly of factory components. If you don't know how to correctly engineer tools, do not attempt to make tools used for dangerous applications. Everything from this point on is YOUR responsibility. I saw this site that was selling press drawings. This huge press had a little softail shock mounted in it. So I dug out this little tool made from all-thread and scrap pipe welded together. Picture is worth one-thousand words. As the common softail shock chucks the retaining spring when the bike is run over a curb and it pukes out the coil spring.
In operation. For questions/corrections/additions, please see this thread. Info - - Slap Hammer #1. Info - - English Wheel. Back to Categories Title: English Wheel Author: Frank Kocinski II and Frank Kocinski III Date: 28-Apr-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in. If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. To register, go here The following information was based on published material by Frank Kocinski II and Frank Kocinski III of The Rodding Roundtable and was used with permission. On the following pages your will find detailed instructions on the parts needed and assembly instructions for a 12" Benchtop English Wheel.
The idea behind this exercise is to build a small English wheel that can be held in a vise, and used to fabricate small patch panels for body repair or modification. For the top wheel, we used a Ford rear axle bearing, used by Ford from 49 until the late 80's. common and cheap. For the anvil we used a 1" self aligning bearing obtained from Tractor Supply. 1 - 1" x 2 1/2" x 8" Rect.
Info - - Single Downtube. Info - - Spiked Tube-end. Info - - Setting the Neck in the Downtubes. Thought I would share a process for cutting the neck cope in the downtubes of a frame. This is for the connection type where the backbone welds to the top of the neck and the downtubes weld to the lower part of the neck. This first picture shows the downtubes in the building jigs with the ends of the tubes cut square. Next, a vertical cut is made in both tubes allowing the downtubes to move in towards the center line of the frame.
Note the two pieces of angle iron used to clamp the tubes. This is a handy tool anyone can make and also works well in the seat wishbone area. Now a chunk of 3/4" CR round bar is put in place of the jig neck post mount where the centering cones normally mount (at least on my jig). In the picture is an air-drill and holesaw cutting the seat. Here is a picture of the tacked assembly after the neck and backbone has been installed. This is on a proto-type rigid frame that uses softail parts (ya got to love the irony of that). Online Metal Store | Small Quantity Metal Orders | Metal Cutting, Sales & Shipping | Buy Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Stainless | Metal Product Guides at OnlineMetals.com. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (01 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (01 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 14-Mar-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in.
If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission. The easiest frame to build is a traditional old school styled chopper since there aren’t any complicated bends or compound miters to cut so we decided to show the chassis fabrication process from A to Z as we do it. The frame for this particular project is derived from the stock 1948 Harley hardtail design but we stretched the downtubes four inches, the backbone two inches and raised the rear axle plates plates one inch and shifted them two inches rearward. To start with you need thirty feet of 1.25”x.120” ERW tubing. Figure 1 1. Table 1 Figure 2. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (02 of 11)
Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (02 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 14-Mar-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in. If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. To register, go here The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission.
Before we go much further we need to decide what style of connection we want to make between the backbone or top tube and the seat post. Figure 3 The second method is almost as popular but a much older style of connection going all the way back to the days when the seat post really served a purpose. Figure 4 Figure 5 I have mixed feelings about this last connection method, which is correctly called a fully mitered joint.
Figure 6 The slope angle on the seat post relative to a vertical line is 17 degrees. Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (03 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (03 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 14-Mar-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in. If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. To register, go here The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission.
Most hole saw based tubing notchers can’t be adjusted to make angled cuts as shallow as the 26 degree notches required for the connection of the wishbones to the top tube. Regardless of the method used it is always a good idea to have alignment lines on all your tubing sections. In figure 17 below we’ve used an indelible marker to scribe the control lines where the toe and heel of the wishbone fish-mouth cut will be made. Figure 17 There is a corresponding longitudinal control line 180 degrees around the tube on the reverse side. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (04 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (04 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 14-Mar-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in. If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. To register, go here The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission.
At this point we’re ready to start building the down-tubes and bottom rails. Figure 19 I call this area of the frame the front ramps. Figure 20 provides the dimensions and angles for the bends on the bottom rails. These two simple bends between the down-tubes and lower rails are fairly critical and should be made with care to insure that the angles are accurate and that the dimension between the two bends is within an eighth of an inch, preferably better. Figure 20 Figure 21 Figure 22 Figure 23. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (05 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (05 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 14-Mar-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in. If you are not a member, please consider signing up.
It's free and only takes a minute at most. To register, go here The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission. Once the forward bends are made in the lower rails its time to fit these into the upper section of the frame we've already made. The frames I build are based upon the old original Harley-Davidson frame design where the down tubes attach to the frame backbone and not to the steering neck tube as you'll see on a lot of modern choppers.
Figure 1 In Figure 2 we see the more common design where the down tubes are welded onto the lower portion of the steering neck. Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4 Figure 5. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (06 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (06 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 14-Mar-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in. If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission. In part five we formed the bends in the lower portion of the bottom rails to create the down tubes for the frame and in this section we'll be preparing the tube notches where the backbone intersects the down tubes.
By now we should have tack welded the rear wishbones to the seat post and backbone so we have what I call the upper assembly of the frame, and we should have our two down tube/lower rail assemblies bent. Figure 1 shows the basic components built so far set up in a rough mockup. Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4 Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (07 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (07 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 14-Mar-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in. If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. To register, go here The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission.
We're getting very close to finishing up the basic frame now but there are a few more important points we need to cover before we can wrap up the lower rails. In part Six we cut the fish-mouth notches in the down tubes at the backbone intersection and now we're ready to figure out how to make the last bend in the lower rails which isn't as simple as it looks. Figure 1 Figure 2 illustrates what I'm trying to describe. Figure 2 Figure 3 One of the handiest books to have on hand is the "Pipe Trades Pocket Manual" by Thomas W. Figure 4. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (08 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (08 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 14-Mar-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in.
If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. To register, go here The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission. In part 7 we bent the lower rails to form the upsweep to the area of the axle plates and now we're ready to cut and install these plates but before we do it's a good idea to understand exactly how the axle adjusters came into being and what it is exactly that they do for us.
In reality nobody does this so as a result we have constant premature wear on all of the drive components even though the bike goes straight down the road. So there we have it. Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 2 shows an oval tubing type of adjuster housing. Figure 3. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (09 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (09 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 09-Apr-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in. If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. To register, go here The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission.
Here are the axle plates finally cut from the template we made in Part 8. Figure 1 You'll no doubt realize that we haven't installed the rear transmission mount cross member yet and we need to do so just before we do the actual installation of the axle plates but we've left this pretty critical part of the frame fabrication until this late point in the build-up so we have a final chance to do some frame straightening before we button it up at the rear. Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4 Be sure to also read the other parts of this guide. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (10 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (10 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 09-Apr-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in.
If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission. In part 9 we finished up the fabrication of the axle plates and cut the ends of the wishbone and lower rail tubes to their final length and now we're ready to install the plates and button up the major portion of the work on the rear end of the frame.
Since we're going to install the plates on the centerline of the tubes for this project start by marking out the location of the 'slots' that the 'legs' of the plates will slip into as shown in Figure 1 below. Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4 Figure 5 Figure 6. Info - - Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (11 of 11) Back to Categories Title: Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication (11 of 11) Author: The Chopper Builders Handbook Online Date: 09-Apr-2004 To view the articles with their proper layout and without ads, you need to be logged in. If you are not a member, please consider signing up. It's free and only takes a minute at most. To register, go here The following information was based on published material by The Chopper Builders Handbook Online and was used with permission. In Part 10 we mounted the rear axle plates and now we're ready to install the steering neck which is actually quite easy but requires a great amount of care to insure that the neck is straight relative to the centerline of the frame.
There are several different methods of cutting the notch in the backbone that will accept the steering neck. To start with, mark a centerline running down the top of the backbone and then using the neck-piece as a guide, mark out the location of the upper portion of the miter cut. Figure 1 Figure 2. Info - - Materials Overview for Frames. Info - - Frame Molding. Info - - Adjustable Jig. Info. Info - - Frame Jigs (1 of 2) Info - - Frame Jigs (2 of 2) Home : Crime Scene Choppers. Tube Bending Machinery, Pipe Benders, Tubing Notchers, Bead Rollers. MechWerks Chopper and Custom Motorcycle Fabrication, Parts and Supplies.